If you’ve been following Knife Thoughts, you know I’m a fan of Jack Wolf Knives. I’ve been extremely fortunate to get to check out a knife from every run they’ve done. The quality, design, consistency, and style has blown me away and they’re really in their own category in the market. That said, I’m definitely aware that they’re not inexpensive. That’s why I’m excited about the Jack Wolf Knives Spring Sale!
From now till 4/21 all Jack Wolf Knives models (excluding the Gunslinger) are 20% off at dealers. For most models that amounts to $60 saved! I suggest getting yours at Traditional Pocket Knives or Knives Ship Free. Austin (TPK) and Jay (KSF) are two of the good guys in the industry and also offer nice rewards programs on top of the sale (though I’m not sure if the sale pricing is live at KSF). Pickings are getting slim, but here’s a few great options from TPK;
Little Bro Jack: A classic Boy’s Knife. The Little Bro Jack is a regular jack pattern with a beautiful clip point blade shape. On the smaller side for a Jack Wolf Knife at 3.54″ closed (about the size of a GEC #15), so easy to carry but still plenty of knife.
Little Bro Jack & Big Bro Jack
Midnight Jack: It doesn’t get any better than a Barlow! By the way, if you like Barlows you should check out the Barlow Bearcat Club. The Midnight Jack is an interesting and classy interpretation of the pattern, with a sculpted coffin shaped handle and a big sheepfoot blade.
Midnight Jack
Pioneer Jack: Ben, owner of Jack Wolf Knives, does an incredible job of creating modern versions of traditional patterns that respect the source. The Pioneer Jack is a great example of that as an updated Peasant Knife (aka Sod Buster or Bullnose or whatever name a company decides to call it). The Pioneer Jack feels ready for real work, and a little burlier than most other JWK models.
Pioneer Jack & Civivi Elementum
I hope you’re able to take advantage of this great opportunity to get a superb knife at a significant discount! If this will be your first Jack Wolf knife I think you’ll be thoroughly impressed with the quality. If it’s your first traditional / non-locking pocket knife, I hope it kicks off an enduring love of slipjoints. Either way, don’t forget to go out and do good!
Here’s a playlist of all my Jack Wolf Knives videos… there’s a lot of them!
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I sincerely thank you for your time, support, and interest! Don’t forget to tell your friends about KnifeThoughts.com, subscribe via email, and share this article on social media. You can find Knife Thoughts on YouTube where I have hundreds of knife videos, as well as on Instagram and Facebook! You can find all my latest links at LinkTr.ee/KnifeThoughts
P.s. Thanks as always to Ben, Donnie, and everyone at Jack Wolf Knives for bringing these incredible knives to fruition and giving me the opportunity to check them out and share my thoughts on them!
I have been intrigued by Axial knives since I first saw one of their (quite unique) ads on Instagram. I reached out and was thrilled to learn that they were a new brand planning to manufacture Out The Front knives in the USA. After reviewing some of their excellent OTFs, they shared that they had a fixed blade design coming out soon; the Alpine.
The USA made Axial Alpine
The first version of the Alpine was a fine little EDC fixed blade, but it had some things that could be improved. The first sheath I got didn’t have quite enough retention, allowing the knife to easily shake out if upside down. I also found the lack of a guard meant my finger would hit the heel of the edge at times, so I ground it down. Finally, I knew that the owners of Axial took pride in producing their knives in house in America, so the first version being made overseas made it feel a bit like a placeholder.
Enter the new Alpine V2. Not only does this new version of the Alpine fix all those areas of lacking from the original, it has a refined design and a new patent pending modular inlay system. The second version of the Alpine is made in the USA, primarily in house at Axial with some processes done at other domestic OEMs. The sheath has great retention and comes with an UltiClip, which can be adjusted for carry at any height and for carry in the waistband, in a pocket, on a belt, or really anywhere you can think of (like, for me, on a fanny pack strap). They added a solid finger guard and sharpening choil, so there’s almost no chance of your hand slipping onto the edge. While the original had only a drop point, the Alpine V2 comes in three blade shapes that coincide with those available on Axial’s flagship OTF the Shift; Wharncliffe, Tanto, and Drop Point.The handle shape is also adjusted some, and makes for incredible ergonomics considering the relatively small size of the knife.
The biggest change, however, is the addition of Axial’s patent pending MagFlex modular inlay system. With MagFlex, the handle is made up of an outer frame and inner magnetic inlay area. So far, they have offered the frame section in stonewashed titanium and inlays of Black G10 or OD Green Micarta, but TODAY (3/22/24 5PM EST) they are releasing several inlay variants in Fat Carbon. I’m planning to buy one, but they all look so good I’m not 100% sure which I’ll be picking up yet (leaning toward Black Dunes). I LOVE the idea of this inlay system because 1) it’s super easy to use and change & 2) it makes for basically endless opportunity for customization. I let them know that I’d love to see some natural materials, like jigged bone or checkered wood… maybe even abalone or pearl! Basically, the inlays work by having two magnets on each piece that pull them into the well fitted cutout area and then toward each other. They included a simple little pick tool to pop the inlays out for changing, but they recommended putting a slight bend in the tool to make it easier to use. I found it to be quick and easy once I applied the bend and got the hang of it. I would imagine that they’ll add different frame section options, as they already offered full handles (without the MagFlex inlay system) in anodized titanium, G10, and Micarta.
I found the Alpine to be a pleasure to carry and use. It was easy to carry with its slender design and UltiClip setup. I did find the sheath put some scratches on the blade from putting the knife in and out during use. Speaking of use, the blade cut great. I have the Wharncliffe version (which I would say is probably closer to a Sheepfoot) and it worked great for my normal daily tasks such as opening boxes, breaking down cardboard, and cutting food into little pieces for my son. The other two blade options look really great also, with a modern twist on classic shapes. The knife cut really well, and seemed to be ground nice and thin for slicing. Speaking of which, the Alpine V2 is in Magnacut, which is the undisputed hype king of knife steels right now. It has great edge retention and corrosion resistance. Overall, this knife has really impressed me and won me over to EDCing a fixed blade. In the past I have always shied away from carrying fixed blades unless I was hunting, fishing, or some other outdoor activity. The Alpine’s ease of carry, great design, and unique aesthetics make it a great option for true Every Day Carry.
If you decide to pick up your own Axial Alpine V2, make sure to use one of the links in this article (affiliate links that help support Knife Thoughts) and use my discount code “KNIFETHOUGHTS”.
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The Stockman and Cattle Knife are some of the most traditional and revered pocket knife patterns… but what are they? And what’s the difference?
GEC’s interpretations of the Cattle Knife (top) and a modified Stockman (bottom)
What are the Stockman and Cattle Knife patterns?
Both the Stockman and Cattle Knife patterns are types of traditional non-locking (now called “slipjoint”) pocket knives. They traditionally have three blades sharing two springs. They both historically were designed and used in agriculture, ranching, and animal husbandry. They’re both typically medium to large sized, compared to other traditional pocket knife patterns, ranging from 3.5″ to 4.25″ closed (with both smaller and larger outliers). So there’s a lot of similarity between the two patterns… so why do they have different names?
The Great Eastern Cutlery #35 Cattle Knife
What’s the difference between a Stockman and Cattle Knife?
The difference between a Stockman and a Cattle Knife comes down to two main things: the handle shape, and the main blade shape. Whereas a Stockman typically uses a serpentine frame (either with rounded or squared ends), a Cattle Knife most often uses an equal end cigar frame (and I’ve never seen one with anything but rounded ends). Also, while both patterns traditionally include sheepfoot and spay secondary blades, a Stockman normally has a clip point main blade and a spear point for the Cattle Knife.
The Rough Ryder RR2102, a square end Stockman with modern steel and construction
That all said, like most “rules” for traditional knife patterns, Stockman and Cattle Knives often bend or break these definitions. For example some include a different secondary blade configuration, like the Great Eastern Cutlery Dixie Stock Knife below with a wharncliffe and drop point. Some even include different tools, like a bottler opener or awl / punch. Some manufacturers have included a lock on the main blade. There are also some modern interpretations with screw construction. As with other traditional knife patterns, the Stockman and Cattle Knife have evolved in their long years on the market. The Stockman and Cattle Knife are two similar but distinct patterns, and two of the most loved!
The Great Eastern Cutlery #82 Dixie Stock Knife
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Okay, I’ll admit it; I have some unpopular opinions about slipjoints. Sure, I like a good snappy action, a pinchable blade, and good fitment like everyone else. There are just some things that many like that I don’t prefer, and I can’t keep them a secret any longer!
Half Stops… Who Needs ‘Em?
I’d take a cam tang over a half stop any day. People claim that a half stop is a safety feature, that it helps stop the blade from closing on your hands if you accidentally put pressure on the spine. In my experience, half stops are as likely to cause a slip while opening the knife as they are to stop the blade from closing on your hand. I actually got a bad cut once while opening a knife that had a strong pull because my hands were oily and slipped when the blade hit the half stop. I also find pulling the blade all the way open or pushing it all the way closed to be more satisfying… no interruption from a half stop needed. So for me I prefer no half stop both from a practical and an aesthetic perspective.
I love the Great Eastern Cutlery #15 Pattern… despite it having a half stop
Sharpening Choils… Should Chill
Sharpening choils seem to be a frequent request on knife designs. I recall people griping in particular about the lack of sharpening choils on Spyderco knives when I frequented the forums. You still don’t see them on many traditional slipjoints, but they’re common on modern slipjoints. Unlike half stops, my preference against sharpening choils is mostly practical. I find that sharpening choils tend to catch when cutting, especially in breaking down cardboard, and moreso the larger the choil. Now, the main argument for a sharpening choil is also practical; they help to keep a consistent blade shape through numerous sharpenings. Sometimes, especially with fixed angle sharpening systems, a blade without a choil can be difficult to sharpen evenly all the way to the heel. For me though, being that I use stones to sharpen, I’d rather have the uninterrupted edge. All that said, I can’t say I have anything against the looks of a well designed sharpening choil.
Jack Wolf Knives have exaggerated sharpening choils, but it works well for them
Carbon Steel… Straight in the Can
I know this one will ruffle some feathers, but there’s never really a time that I’d prefer carbon steel over stainless steel. On a user, stainless steel means much less maintenance. While in the past it was true that stainless steel was often of lower quality, the opposite is more commonly true now. Modern stainless steel has advanced far beyond the capability of 1095 and its traditional brethren. Simple carbon steels are easier to sharpen, but much of it depends on the skills and tools available to the user. For a collection knife, stainless steel means you don’t have to worry that your knife will rust just sitting in its box if a little moisture finds its way in. It also means the etch will not lighten with storage care. While I can appreciate a patina as a visual reminder of the usefulness of the knife, I generally prefer the look of unaltered steel. So, for me, stainless steel is usually more practical and allows me to continue to enjoy the knife’s original intended look.
The vast majority of GEC knives are in carbon steel, like this #21 Bull Buster showing a healthy patina developing
That said…..
This is all not to say that I don’t like knives with those features. Many of my favorite knives have some or even all of the characteristics mentioned above. Most Great Eastern Cutlery knives have carbon steel and half stops. Almost all Jack Wolf Knives have sharpening choils and half stops. So it’s not that a half stop, or sharpening choil, or carbon steel are deal breakers on their own or even in concert for me. Rather, they’re just not features I would include on my ideal slipjoint.
What unpopular opinions do you have about slipjoints? Are there any features you dislike that others like, or vice versa?
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Today was a good day for traditional knife enthusiasts, as two long awaited slipjoints have burst onto the scene!
Advanced Knife Bro Stump Lifter
The Stump Lifter is a new slipjoint designed by Advanced Knife Bro. Advanced Knife Bro is one of the best knife reviewers on YouTube, with a unique dry wit that often garners salty comments. I’ve been watching his videos for years and have enjoyed watching him dive deeper into his enthusiasm for traditional knives and slip joints. He’s even a member of the Barlow Bearcat Club! The Stump Lifter is in collaboration with, and an exclusive for, Blade HQ. It is manufactured by QSP, a well regarded and widely used OEM for both modern knives and slipjoints (such as the Traditional Pocket Knives Ohio River Jacks). I got the green bone version and will do a video soon, so make sure you’re subscribed to my YouTube channel! All 3 versions are still available as of this writing at $120, and you can find them here.
Great Eastern Cutlery #15 TC Barlow
The #15 pattern is probably the most widely loved by Great Eastern Cutlery fans, especially in the TC Barlow iteration, so it was great news to see it on today’s production scheduled update! If you’re not familiar with the TC Barlow you can watch my video on the most recent run back in 2021. Now, not to lie by omission, they also included #15 Urban Jacks on that update. However, as a Barlow enthusiast, I am most excited about the new single blade sheepfoot #15 TC Barlow that is coming down the pipeline. Even better, it is shown to be slated to have “Tractor Green” sawcut bone for the covers (as well as an indication that there will be more handle options that are as yet undecided). I’m sure these will be a HOT ticket even among the normally difficult to buy GEC drops, so email your favorite dealers!
The Rider by CC is the latest in a string of incredible Special Factory Orders for Charlie Campagna by Great Eastern Cutlery, and a classic Harness Jack.
TLDR? Check out my video on the Rider by CC and the Harness Jack pattern here!
An article on the Harness Jack by Charlie from the OKCA Newsletter
What is Waynorth Cutlery?
Waynorth Cutlery is the brand created and owned by Charlie Campagna. It is named after his BladeForums username, “Waynorth”. So far only three knives have been graced by the Waynorth Cutlery tang stamps; “Waynorth” arched over “Cutlery” over “Buffalo, NY” and on the reverse the classic “OIL THE JOINTS”. Those knives are the Lambfoot (GEC #93 pattern), Blackjack (GEC #86 pattern), and now the Rider by CC (GEC #86 pattern). Although Charlie did have knives made by Queen while Bill Howard (now founder / owner of Great Eastern Cutlery) was head cutler there, all of the Waynorth branded knives have been made by GEC. The Rider by CC is Charlie’s newest special factory order, and is a Harness Jack.
Models with the Waynorth Cutlery tang stamps
What is a Harness Jack?
A Harness Jack is a classic pattern that typifies the historical draw of traditional knives. The Harness Jack is a jack knife, meaning both “blades” come from the same end of the handle, and includes a main blade and a leather punch (sometimes called an awl). The main blade is often a spear point, but can be a clip point like on the Rider by CC. The handle is often a swell end, where the handle widens from the pivot end to a rounded butt end, but can also be a sleeve board or equal end pattern. The secondary blade, a punch, is a triangular piercing tool with a sharpened edge. Like many traditional patterns, the Harness Jack is a tool that was created for a specific use that was more common in our past. For the Harness Jack that use was repairing leather goods, specifically horse tack. The Harness Jack was a popular pattern in the heyday of traditional pocket knives, around the turn of the 20th century. At that time almost everything ran on horse power; manufacturing machinery, farming equipment, and of course transportation. Additionally, more everyday goods were made of leather. So if your horse’s harness or your briefcase’s strap broke, it was extremely convenient to have a punch available to make a new hole and mend it enough to get through your day. There were a myriad of punch designs, and there was even several patents filed in the 1910s, probably to capitalize on World War 1 and the demand for tack and other leather goods it would cause. However, the pattern seems to have faded and basically died out in the 1930s. This timeframe coincides with the rise of the automobile and its becoming commonplace in everyday life, and therefore less need for horse tack. That said, the punch didn’t entirely disappear from the knife industry; Scout and Camp knives continued to include a punch, due to the higher likelihood that one would need to repair leather while recreating outdoors. So, like other patterns with historic uses (Trapper, Cotton Sampler, etc.), the Harness Jack harkens back to a different time and gives that feeling of historicity that is so integral to many collectors’ enjoyment of traditional knives.
An excerpt from a 1911 Schatt & Morgan catalog showing several Harness Jacks
What makes the Rider by CC special?
The Rider by CC brings Charlie’s designs full circle. Being that his main collection interest has been Harness Jacks and his first SFOs with Queen were Harness Jacks, it’s fitting that this latest is a classic example of the pattern. The Rider by CC also shares connections with two other of Charlie’s SFOs, the Texas Camp Knife and Blackjack. Charlie had a special version of the GEC #98 Texas Camp Knife made, and believe it or not the punch on the Rider by CC is the same as the one used on the #98 (which I forgot to mention in the above video, to my great frustration). The Blackjack was a Jumbo Jack SFO Charlie had made on a previous run of the #86 pattern, the same frame as the Rider by CC. The Rider by CC also has a special “Empire” shield, based upon a shield often used by Empire Knife Company. Empire is a brand that Charlie has also collected and has an incredible display of their many patterns, so the Rider by CC’s unique shield serves as a great reference to that side of Charlie’s collection. The Rider by CC is a quintessential Harness Jack that perfectly represents Charlie’s passion for traditional knives and his Waynorth Cutlery brand.
The identical forged punches on the #98 Texas Camp Knife and #86 Rider by CC, one with more use!
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Some knives boast innovations that add to the practicality, others showcase special features that add to the aesthetic, and then there’s the Imperial Trick Knife.
The Trick Knife is a single bladed non locking folding knife that was made with a rather unique feature. Within the blade well a space was cut in the liners that housed a small free moving bar. That bar moves up and down in its housing due to gravity as the knife is turned. Why? It gives the knife a “trick”; the blade can only be opened when the knife is upside down and can only be closed when the knife is upright.
An advertisement for a trick knife called “The Humbug Knife”
What is the purpose of this feature? Well, as the name suggests, it really only serves as a fun trick to challenge your friends. In fact, some original advertising even claimed that only the most calm tempered could open it without frustration the first time. There’s not much practical use of a knife locking closed and not open. That said, if you want to “secure” your knife against someone opening it without your leave (like, in my case, if you have a small child around) it could be a useful feature… at least until they figure out the trick.
Despite its endearing quirkiness, the trick mechanism seems to have been seen as pure novelty by the manufacturer. The blade tang is stamped with several patent numbers. The tang numbers correspond to patents for the construction of the handle, but I could find no patents related to the locking mechanism online. Also, these trick knives were often given away by companies as advertising knives with their logo etched on the handles, or sold cheaply with TV character graphics on the handles.
Patent drawing for the handle construction method used by Imperial, the bottom line of the tang stamp on the Trick Knife
Despite the fact that the trick mechanism isn’t overly practical and the trick knife was sold as a novelty, it’s a unique and interesting piece of cutlery history. It hearkens back to a golden age of the knife industry when there was widespread innovation, just like there is today. Just as with those of today, not all cutlery innovations of the past took hold. Even still, the Imperial Trick Knife oozes a certain endearing nostalgia that can’t be denied.
Thank you to Jerram for loaning this awesome piece of cutlery history, and congratulations on owning such a great heirloom!
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The Big Chief is a classic American traditional pocket folding knife. Its sturdy build and unique design helps it to stand out from other knives throughout its long history. This article will discuss the Big Chief’s history, compare various iterations, and look to possible future renditions.
Titusville Era
The Big Chief design and mechanism was first created by Queen Cutlery in Titusville Pennsylvania. Queen Cutlery was a long time giant in the pocket knife industry, holding a respected place in the market (under various names) for over a hundred years. Queen produced a myriad of knife patterns, pretty much every type of pocket and hunting knife you can think of, under several in house brands and also manufactured for outside brands. The name “Big Chief” was one of those trademarks (more on this later) that Queen owned and used.
Queen Cutlery catalogue advertising graphic
So what is the Big Chief as created by Queen? The Big Chief is an integral handle slipjoint with a cast aluminum handle and a stainless steel blade. Both the integral handle and the stainless blade were innovative for their time. In fact, a patent was filed for the integral handle slipjoint design by inventor E. C. Erickson in 1955. When Queen began to use stainless steel it was still controversial and relatively new to the industry, so they decided to call it “Queen Steel”. Queen put these two new advancements in cutlery together to create the Big Chief; a large integral handled jack knife.
The original Big Chief, made in Titusville Pennsylvania by Queen
The integral handle allowed the knife to be extremely durable, with much less chance of loosening or breaking than most folding knives of the time. Most folding knives at that time used natural materials like wood or bone for the handle covers, and they were prone to cracking if dropped or used roughly. Not so with the solid aluminum handles of the Big Chief. The stainless steel blade meant that the Big Chief could be used without the user having to worry about cleaning the blade, whereas the simple carbon steels used on most knives of the time would rust quickly when left wet or dirty. The Big Chief was made as early as the late 1950’s, but I haven’t been able to track down the exact first year of production. Queen made several versions including one with a hawkbill blade, a serrated blade, a filet clip point, versions with an easy open notch, versions with a bail, and even a smaller version dubbed simply the “Chief”.
Patent drawing for integral handled slipjoint construction, such as used in the Big Chief
Unfortunately Queen went out of business at the beginning of 2018 and put the future of the Big Chief under doubt. Would this American classic die out with its creator?
A Confusing Start to a New Era
As part of its liquidation, all of Queen’s assets were sold off at auction. This included all the brands and trademarks owned by the company. Smoky Mountain Knife Works purchased the Queen and Queen City trademarks, and began to have knives made under those brands. Whereas Queen knives had always been made in the USA, Smoky Mountain Knife Works had Queen and Queen City branded knives manufactured both domestically and overseas. Eventually they released a “Big Chief” model. This new version of the Big Chief was made in China, which many traditional knife enthusiasts do not prefer (to put it lightly). SMKW’s Big Chief retained the stainless blade and general pattern shape. However, it did not use the patented integral handle construction; it had a more conventional construction with a normal backspring, two separate handle slabs, and even an adjustable pivot. All that said, Smoky Mountain Knife Works’ Big Chief did keep the sturdy, reliable, budget friendly spirit of the original intact. It’s a great user knife for the low price of $15.
SMKW Queen Big Chief, made in China with standard handle construction
However, there seems to have been some sort of mix up surrounding the ownership of the “Big Chief” trademark. As it turns out, Cooper Cutlery purchased some of the trademarks previously owned by Queen (as well as much of the machinery)… including the Big Chief. Cooper Cutlery, headed by Gilbert Cooper and his sons in Ohio, is a new outfit endeavoring to continue the great American tradition of pocket cutlery manufacturing. So, after a few runs of knives made under other brands they own, they released their own version of the Big Chief. Cooper Cutlery’s Big Chief had the previously mentioned hawkbill blade that was sometimes referred to as the diver’s version by Queen. Not only is Cooper Cutlery using the same machinery that Queen used, it also kept the traditional integral handle construction. Cooper Cutlery’s Big Chief also kept the budget friendly price, at around $40. Although twice as expensive as the Smoky Mountain Knife Works version, $40 is still about the rock bottom you can find an Americanmadetraditional slipjoint for in today’s market. Cooper Cutlery did not build these to be safe queens or collector pieces but rather to be thrown in a tool or tackle box like the Queen originals, and the build quality matches that intention.
Cooper Cutlery Big Chief, made in Winchester Ohio with integral handle construction
An Open Future
I hope the future holds more American made Big Chief knives. I’d love to see Cooper Cutlery expand their Big Chief line to include some of the versions Queen made. In particular, I think the normal clip point version and especially the smaller “Chief” version would be especially popular with today’s traditional knife users and collectors. Cooper Cutlery is in a process of learning the knife making trade and what the knife market wants, and I think the Big Chief line is a great space in which to build their experience. So here’s to a bright future for the Big Chief!
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The links to Amazon in this article are Amazon Affiliate links. That means that if you click them and purchase the product you won’t pay any more than you normally would on Amazon, but I get a commission from the sale. This is just a way for you to support Knife Thoughts and allow me to procure more funding for the project and its knives.
So, you just bought yourself a shiny new knife and want to make sure it’s up to snuff. In this article I’ll describe the 6 points that I check when receiving a knife. These characteristics cover the bulk of what decides where a knife lands on the spectrum from abysmally terrible to mythically epic.
#1 Edge Exposure
Checking for edge exposure, most commonly in the form of a proud tip, is one of the first things I do when inspecting a knife. This is because it is a practical concern; if the edge is exposed you can accidentally cut yourself when reaching in your pocket for the knife etc. Most commonly on slipjoints, but also sometimes on modern knives, this issue rears its ugly head as a proud tip. A tip is proud when it sits above the blade well enough that it can be caught on a fingernail without actually opening the blade. This issue is all too common in my opinion, and those who watch my videos know I am hounded by proud tips on otherwise perfect GECs. Modern knives can also have proud tips, but I find it to be quite uncommon. However, modern knives, often having pass through handles (no backspring / a gap at the spine side of the blade well also), can sometimes have edge exposure along that spine side of the handle. This happens when the blade is too tall for the blade well and the edge sits close enough to the back of the handle that you can contact it when running a finger along the back of the handle. Both of these types of edge exposure have their fixes; a proud tip can often be alleviated by dropping the kick, and the edge can be sharpened back from the handle opening. However, I prefer not to have to modify my knives for them to be safe (even if actual injury is unlikely) so these issues are sometimes deal breakers.
#2 Edge Damage
Edge damage on a new knife is most commonly caused by blade rap, but can also be a defect in sharpening. Blade rap is when the edge hits some part of the handle upon closing. On slipjoints the edge often hits the backspring, especially at the spring pin hump, and on modern knives the edge sometimes hits the backspacer or a standoff. I would also consider the edge hitting the sides of the blade well blade rap, but that is covered more in depth by the next point. The edge hitting the backspring can cause varying levels of damage to the edge, from a barely perceptible flat area to a full on roll. No matter the amount of damage done, blade rap diminishes the utility of the knife and is a defect. That said, note that some traditional knife patterns, notably from France, are designed to have the edge rest on the backspring so as to eliminate the tip becoming proud through multiple sharpenings. Less commonly, some knives might come with edge damage not related to blade rap. This type of edge damage can be due to a poor sharpening job from the factory or from damage in shipping. As a knife’s purpose is to cut, the edge should arrive to the buyer without damage.
#3 Blade Centering
The title pretty much says it all here; is the blade centered in the blade well? Some people put a lot of emphasis on this point because they strongly prefer the aesthetics of a centered blade, which is fine if that matters to you. However, an uncentered blade can be indicative of other issues such as blade play (discussed in the next point), a bent or unevenly ground blade, or a warped handle. Those are more practical issues rather than aesthetic. Of course, if a blade is so off centered that it rubs on the handle liners or actually hits the edge on the liner upon closing that is a definite defect. The blade should not be defaced or the edge damaged every time the knife is closed.
#4 Lockup
Most modern folding knives lock, and the lock should function securely when received. The lock should hold the blade open without significant play, or movement, in any direction (for most lock types). You can test for blade play by opening the knife then grasping the blade from the spine side, being careful to keep your hand far from the edge, and try to wiggle the blade side to side and forward and back. Another test that many do is a spine whack test. A spine whack test is when you strike the spine of the locked blade against a hard surface, such as a piece of wood, to check that it doesn’t unlock. Many manufacturers discourage this test, and it is a test that should be done with the utmost care and emphasis on safety (NEVER hold the knife so your hand is in the way of the blade if it did fold) if done at all. Of course, non locking knives can’t be tested for lockup but you can still test for side to side blade play. Having secure lock up is an important aspect of a good knife, as poor lockup can range from irritating to downright dangerous.
#5 Action
Action is the term used for the actual opening and closing of a knife. Folding knife action has come a long way in the last decade or two. Now even extremely budget friendly knives often come with glassy smooth opening and closing. Many knives have ball bearing washers in their pivots which allow for very low friction. Some look for “drop closed smooth” meaning that the blade drops closed by its own weight when unlocked, while others prefer a more deliberate closing motion be required. What an ideal action looks like is up to each individual, but I think a knife’s action should both work practically and be enjoyable.
#6 Fit and Finish
Finally, the knife should be inspected for general fit and finish. So what is fit and finish? It’s the sum of how precisely the parts of the knife are fit together and how well each part is finished. This could include the meeting of the scales, or covers, of the handle with the bolsters or with the liners. It could include the evenness of the finish on the handle and blade; the lack or presence of machining marks etc. Fit and finish is another area where budget knives have made huge strides to close the gap with premium knives over the last few years. Most modern knives of $50 and up should have few if any obvious imperfections in the fitment of the parts and finish of the surfaces upon a cursory glance. That said, some knives are expected to have slight imperfections due to the nature of their manufacture. For example, many traditional slipjoint knives are expected to have minor flaws and individual character because they’re made using traditional methods. Even Great Eastern Cutlery, the premier American traditional knife manufacturer, knives are expected to have a slight deformation in a pin or gap around the shield every now and then. Ultimately, the level of fit and finish that one finds acceptable at each price point is a personal decision, but it is still worth considering.
BONUS; First Impression
There’s another characteristic of a knife that I think is worth considering but that didn’t make the list; the visceral first impression it gives you. Often, as a knife enthusiast, opening a knife and handling it for the first time will give you a strong feeling. Whether positive or negative, this feeling often has nothing to do with the objective qualities of the knife outlined above. Even though this first impression might not be based on any real practical characteristics, it’s still important to one’s enjoyment of a knife. We as knife enthusiasts deserve to be thrilled every time we get a new knife, so don’t ignore your first impression of a new purchase.
For those of us who make knives a hobby, we deserve to get a good value for our hard earned money. That’s why I think it’s important to check each knife you receive for these 6 key points of quality, and also to consider your first impression. If a knife passes all these checks, congratulations; you have yourself a great every day carry tool or collection piece in your new knife!
P.s. I used videos that touch heavily on the discussed characteristic here in lieu of pictures because I think they do a better job of showing the issue in a realistic manner.
I sincerely thank you for your time, support, and interest! Don’t forget to tell your friends about KnifeThoughts.com, subscribe via email, and share this article on social media. You can find Knife Thoughts on YouTube where I have hundreds of knife videos, as well as on Instagram and Facebook! You can find all my latest links at LinkTr.ee/KnifeThoughts
Have you ever picked up your EDC knife for the day and realized it was duller than a trip to the DMV? Sometimes you don’t have time to break out the full fixed angle fancy sharpening system and sit down for a laborious labor of love to get that perfect apex. Sometimes you just want to get your knife back to doing what it’s made to do; cut stuff. Well I have some great news for you! Not only can you serviceably sharpen a knife without specialized tools, you probably have some options for achieving a perfectly usable edge just lying around.
Your Cup of Coffee
No, not the disposable cup from your local mega-chain coffee shop. Your normal every day stained from years of use ceramic coffee cup can actually be used to sharpen. Now, you’re going to be turning the cup upside down, so I suggest one without coffee in it. The bottoms of most ceramic mugs have a ring of exposed medium-ish grit ceramic. This ring can be used very similarly to a sharpening stone or rod. Simply draw your knife’s edge across the exposed ceramic grit at the appropriate angle until you reach an acceptable apex. Make sure there aren’t any oversized pieces of grit in the area you use so as to not create any edge damage, and make sure to use light pressure and a consistent angle. You’ll have a very passable edge and will be ready to pour your favorite brew!
Your Drive to Work
Now, to be clear, I am NOT suggesting you sharpen your knife WHILE driving. That said, when you get in the car to warm it up in the morning you can use the top edge of your window to sharpen. Similarly to a coffee mug, most car windows have an exposed area of fine-ish grit along the top edge. In my experience the grit on this top edge of car windows is significantly finer than that on coffee mugs. So use the same method, but it might take a few more passes and you might be able to achieve a little bit finer edge. Just make sure you do it sitting inside the car, otherwise you might look a little too nefarious; waving your knife menacingly in the window of an empty car. This can be a great way to keep a sharp edge even when traveling!
Your Essential Raiment
If you just need a quick touch up to bring your edge from sharp to razor sharp and wear a leather belt you have a strop at your constant disposal. While it might not make a truly dull knife sharp, a leather strop can be a great way to keep your edge sharp. Even a leather belt can be used as a strop, though I generally recommend using the back / inside side of the belt to avoid any scratches showing. Also, the inside of the belt is sometimes a rougher finished leather, which can be more effective as a strop. To use the strop, find the correct angle for the edge and pull the blade in an edge trailing orientation across the belt with light pressure along the whole edge until the knife is back to your preferred sharpness. If you want to get really wild with it you can even put a very small dab of toothpaste on the leather and smear it around to an even and very thin coating on the area you’ll use as a strop. The toothpaste will provide a little bit of polishing action, not to mention a pleasant aroma.
Dull knives don’t have to be a constant frustration when you’re short on time or specialized tools. With a little ingenuity, you can sharpen your knives using everyday items you already have around the house. Whether it’s a ceramic coffee mug, the top edge of your car window, or even a leather belt, these household items can be employed to achieve a usable edge on your knife. Just remember to use light pressure, a consistent angle, and be aware that these methods should be used as backups when a dedicated sharpener isn’t available. With these simple tips, you can get your knife back to its cutting best in no time.
I sincerely thank you for your time, support, and interest! Don’t forget to tell your friends about KnifeThoughts.com, subscribe via email, and share this article on social media. You can find Knife Thoughts on YouTube where I have hundreds of knife videos, as well as on Instagram and Facebook! You can find all my latest links at LinkTr.ee/KnifeThoughts
